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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.